Because ski mountaineering is so varied, there is no one single “best rope” out there that covers all the bases. Sometimes you want a short, light, skinny rope just in case, and other times you need a full length, beefy multi-fall lead line. In the past I’ve carried a variety of 60m ropes based on what I thought the worst case scenario might be. If there was a chance of having to lead vertical water ice, I’d bring a 9.8mm lead line. If it was mainly a glacier trip, I’d bring a skinny 7.8mm rope. There were two problems with this set-up; the first was that if you misjudged the terrain, you were lead climbing on a skinny rope (yikes!) or dragging a huge rope on mellow terrain. The second was that you were always coiling/uncoiling and carrying generally more rope than you needed. 30m ropes are great for ski mountaineering, except when you need 50m.
On our recent trip to Antarctica I ended up bringing two 30m ropes of different diameters and was very psyched on the flexibility of the system. Glacier travel with 4-5 people on a 30m rope makes for some tight spacing, but then again, it depends on the terrain. Antarctica had lots of crevasses, but they weren’t the Mack Truck swallowing monsters that you can get up in Alaska, so the tighter spacing meant better communications and less rope work. We used the Sterling 9.2mm Fusion Nano most of the time and swapped out carrying the lighter 7.8mm Sterling Fusion Photon as needed. Continue reading ‘Glacier Rope Set-up’



Haute Hut Cuisine
We recently spent a night in a hut and I was reminded of an excellent food trick I learned last season from “Goldie” up in Whistler. Time and powder are of the essence with a hut trip and it is a shame to waste them by washing dishes and doing endless clean-up, which takes twice as long if you don’t have running water. Behold – burritos to the rescue. Continue reading ‘Haute Hut Cuisine’