Field tuning ski gear is less than ideal, but often times necessary if you go on an extended trip with endless icy or gloppy conditions. As with most expedition situations, inspiration is more important than perfection and the goal is to make due with what you have rather than packing extra gear.
It is hard to believe until you try it, but those tiny little files on high-quality Multi-Tools do a passable job sharpening edges.
Skin wax also works as base wax if you rub it in. Better yet, bring a block of regular warm weather wax and use that as skin wax. It’s cheaper, multipurpose and works as well as “official” skin wax, which can be marginal depending on conditions.
Blown Binding Screws
Spare binding screws are the tiny cornerstone of a minimalist repair kit as they don’t weigh much and are virtually impossible to replicate in the field. Loose screws can be tightened up by lining the stripped hole with tin foil, energy bar wrappers, chunks of a Space Blanket or any sort of tough, flexible film. Steel wool works better yet if you happen to have it. The important part is to gently put the screw back in, as they are easily stripped.
For such little parts, binding screws can have a huge impact on your day.
Tail delaminations are the beginning of the end for a ski and even delams fixed in a shop are dubious. In the field, the best you can do is to slow the delamination process by crudely screwing it back together, or stitching it with wire. Tail delaminations are best avoided from the start by not throwing your skis off of cliffs you are downclimbing, hucking them across rivers or ramming them too hard into the snow for anchors.
There is almost nothing in the ski world which can’t be fixed with JB Weld. It acts as a burly epoxy and can also be lumped on, then filed into shape for recreating broken plastic parts. It requires a clean, dry surface and roughly 24 hours of warm temperatures to cure, which makes it impractical for day tours, but it is ideal for any trip over a three days.
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Category: 02 Gear