Archive for the '02 Gear' Category

Cook Tent Architecture

My first impression of pyramid style tarp tents was not good. After arriving at a barren, windy trailhead late at night, we set the tent up, stripped down and crawled into our sleeping bags.  The next thing I knew, I felt a cool breeze on my face could see the stars.  Realizing the tent had been cleanly plucked out of the ground by the wind, we proceeded to chase it down in our underwear while stubbing toes on rocks and roots.  I wasn’t sold and it took me a few years to see (and feel) the light, but now I’m a convert.

Pyramid style tents (Megamids, Kiva’s, etc.) are an art-form, which once learned, has many advantages.  They are incredibly light, spacious, simple and allow you to cook in the tent (not that I don’t anyways).  They work well for protection from the sun or rain, and can be used anywhere from the sizzling desert to a freezing glacier.  For summer camping, I usually just erect them and leave it at that, but for winter camping, especially if the tent is being used for a cook tent, I’ll excavate bench seats and a table.  This process takes anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour depending on the snow quality and urgency, so it works well for extended stays at a basecamp, but is a bit impractical for moving camp every day.


The finished product.  This can hold up to about 6 seated people.  For added comfort, place a RidgeRest foam pad on the seats.

There are a million variations on this theme, but here’s how I do mine.  In the name of furthering the art-form, I’d be happy to post other people’s kitchen arrangements as well.  Please send them to amclean@xmission.com.

BEFORE STARTING, ORIENT THE TENT DOOR TO THE LEE OF THE WIND!


Step One: Level a flat spot (size not too important right now) and then mark out The Holy Ground which will become the table top.  Don’t step on this area or dig in it, as it is hard to replace!  Mark it off with shovel tic-marks at 1.5 shovel widths wide by 6 widths long.


Step Two: Cut out two identical trenches on either side of The Holy Ground.  These should be 1 shovel width wide and about waist deep.  When finished, these should be big enough to bury a body in, so keep an eye on suspicious partners.


Step Three: Moving laterally one shovel width, dig a half depth trench.  This forms the seats.  Don’t worry about making these too narrow, as it is easy to widen them later, but not so easy to narrow them.


Step Four: Connect the two bays with a trench one shovel width wide.


Ta da! Jim Harris basking in the glory of it all.


Shitters are just smaller variations on the theme.

After a few days the table will start to melt out and will probably need to be rebuilt.  Once the pit has been excavated and the tent erected, cut out a few steps leading down into it.  I like to put them off center such that they line up with one of the foot trenches, that way you can keep one side of the tent door closed.  Another nicety is to dig out foot/toe wells, although you do so at the risk of structurally weakening your table.
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Help support StraightChuter.com and bust out a quick kitchen with a G3 AviTECH Shovel ON SALE NOW from Backcountry.com. Click on the photo below…

Whippet Sharpening

Whenever I’m in JHole with Rando Steve chugging  down GU Chomps and Cucumber Mint Nuun chasers, he asks me how I sharpen my Whippets.  Here’s how… Continue reading ‘Whippet Sharpening’

Enlightenment – Step 2

Ahhh, I can feel the pounds falling away.  Tomorrow is my first day out with my lighter set-up and I can’t wait/weight.

As mentioned in the last post, I am keeping my heavier Safety Pack and assembling a light one as well.

Things that got the outright chop:

  1. Goggles – I use wide sun glasses instead.
  2. Probe – I’ve used a ski pole as a probe before and it worked.
  3. Avalanche Airbag – I love this thing (BCA Float 30) but there’s no denying it is heavy.

Substitutions:

  1. Down jacket (MHW Phantom) replaces synthetic (MHW Hooded Compressor).
  2. Old skool water bladder replaces fancy-ass CamelBak with huge screw-on lid.

Downsizing: Continue reading ‘Enlightenment – Step 2′

Enlightenment – Step 1

The process of reducing my total backcountry skiing equipment weight is harder than it seems. First, there are times when I definitely DO want the full-monty of safety gear and creature comforts, but it is hard to say exactly when that is.  For instance, during the past few days the avalanche danger in the Wasatch has been High, but instead of needing more safety gear, I prefer to ski low angle terrain and do safe, exploratory tours instead of steeper skiing.  Conversely, when the avalanche danger is low or moderate, I might ski steeper, more exposed terrain, but then there is less avalanche risk, so perhaps I don’t need all the extra gear then either..?  Hard to say.

Rather than constantly shuffling gear between packs, I’m putting together two completely separate and different packs – a light one and a heavy one.  May the best pack win.  ;)  The light pack will have a minimal amount of gear, water and food, and will be outfitted for a day of backcountry skiing in the Wasatch, where if you get cold or hurt, you ski ten minutes back to your car and go home.

In the name of weight savings I’m willing to sacrifice a degree of safety (down jacket vs. synthetic, no extra gloves, minimal 1st Aid Kit, etc.,) but there are a few items that are sacrosanct, namely a large shovel and pair of Whippets. I learned the value of a large shovel (G3 AviTech, Voile Telepro, etc) in 1993 when I tried to dig a buried friend out with a tiny mountaineering shovel, which was tragically frustrating.   As for the Whippets, if I could have them surgically implanted in my hands, I’d do it as I use them so often and in so many different ways.  For long mellow tours, I’ll occasionally use skinny little carbon-fiber pencil shaft poles with Nordic grips on them, but not that often.  Give me Whippets or give me death. Continue reading ‘Enlightenment – Step 1′

A Frame vs. Diagonal Ski Carry

Few topics get the fur flying among backcountry skiers more than discussing the merits of A-frame vs. diagonal ski carrying modes on backpacks. Blood will be spilled. Continue reading ‘A Frame vs. Diagonal Ski Carry’

Warm & Blister-free Boot Fitting

I’m happy to say that I haven’t had a ski boot related blister for years and the last one I did get came from trying to mold my own liners.  Some things are better left to the pros.

Here’s the not-so secrets to my blister free success…

1) Go with boots that fit your feet.  I’ve been skiing in Scarpa’s for years and am not sure if they fit my feet or at this point my feet have conformed to the boots, but whatever the case, Scarpa’s are a known and consistent entity for me.   When I was into Alpine racing I wore a size 7 Lange, but for touring have gone up two full sizes to a size 9.

2) Use a thick, high quality sock like a Bridgedale, Smartwool or one of the new BC.com merino wool versions.  They are pricey ($25ish a pair), but they last forever, or seven years – which ever comes first.

3) Find an insole that fits your foot.  Some of the new boots come with substantial insoles (like the BD line), but I’ve found that SuperFeet fit my foot and are comfy.  I have been rolling them over for about five years and take them out of my old boots, then use them again for my new ones.

4) Use a good boot fitter who knows how to fit backcountry/touring boots, as a BC fit is different than an Alpine fit.  I’ve been going to Dennis Maw at Black Diamond in Salt Lake City who is a Liner Magician. Continue reading ‘Warm & Blister-free Boot Fitting’

Bolted Rap Anchors for Skiing

Establishing rappel anchors on a ski descent is a labor of love and an art form.  On a first descent, you may have no idea what the route will require, so you bring along a selection of nuts, slings, cams & pitons and hope for the best.  Most skiing lines which require a rappel aren’t worth repeating, but occasionally a few of them become classics and see a lot of traffic.  When this happens, the original half-assed anchors are often added to in an attempt to beef them up which eventually leads to the Ski Mountaineering version of a Super Fund site – a pile of unsafe garbage that nobody really wants to clean up. Continue reading ‘Bolted Rap Anchors for Skiing’

My Cook Kit

Here is a blow-by-blow description of my cook kit.  I’ve developed this over many years and it is definitely geared towards melting lots of snow and cooking simple meals which don’t require simmering. Continue reading ‘My Cook Kit’

Tuning Bench Tie-Down

Trying to clamp down the latest generation of wide skis for a tune-up is like wrestling an eel in a vat of Crisco.  Forget it.  Because they are so wide, yet have a thin cross section and rounded topsheets, traditional tuning clamps will hold skis only long enough to look secure, yet the first time you lay into your bases with a file, the ski pops loose and you drive the back of your knuckles directly into the steel edges, slicing your hand open and gushing blood.  It’s enough to make you not want to tune your phatties.

To help hold skis in place, a few companies (like Swix) make rubber devices that wrap around your bindings and pull the ski to your bench. Click here for details on my bench setup. I was tempted to buy one of these, but thought I’d try a piece of accessory cord and a hardware store cleat first. Much to my wallet’s relief, it works really well and the total cost was $1.19.

Start with a piece of accessory cord about 24″ long.  Tie a small knot in one end and use that to make a loop, which is then wrapped around the binding (this works with almost any style of binding). Continue reading ‘Tuning Bench Tie-Down’

Dynafit Brake Modification

As a crusading Dynafit Evangelist, I’m loathe to say anything bad about them, but will admit that many times the brakes hang up and don’t deploy. This happens often enough that some of my Dynafit buddies skip the brakes altogether as “they never work anyway.” It seems that this is more common with skis that are right at the brakes limits, like using a 92mm brake on a 91mm ski, which technically should work, but seldom does.

Rather than yarding on the brake legs, (which only makes matters worse as they require a certain geometry to retract and deploy well), I use a Dremel tool and grind off the inside of the plastic tabs. Continue reading ‘Dynafit Brake Modification’