Rick running back to the car after completing the loop.

There is no real route to speak of, and although the climbing guidebook rates it 5.4 or so, you can always avoid harder sections by traversing out onto the south face.  It is a very fun outing on mostly solid rock, but should be treated with a good dose of respect as there have been fatalities on it, including a good friend, Dan Rector.

One of the hardest parts of the entire route is actually finding the start.  After walking up an old spur road directly under the south face, go about to the middle of the clearing and start up a narrow path.  From here, stumble your way up a loose talus field, angling slightly to climbers left and looking for a white face/gully.

It doesn't look like much, but it's the best way to start the ridge.

Work your way up through this, and keep angling to climbers left.  When you get up a bit, you’ll be able to see the GazEx tube.  Head towards it.

Head right towards the GazEx, but before you get there, take a look to your right - there's a hidden gully. Take it to a dead tree at a notch. Start up from there.

From here, you are in power scramble mode and stay on the ridge within about 10-15 feet.

Rick Angell on the classic part of the lower ridge.

After crossing the top of Suicide Chute, you wander around for a while and eventually end up at a lower angle hiking section which is mostly ebony and ivory colored rocks.  A bit after this at around the 2,000′ level is the crux if you choose to stay right on the ridge.  This can be easily skirted to the climbers right via a chossy gully.

Rick Angell pulling through the optional crux.

Go dog, go!
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