Comments on: New Addition to Glacier Kit

By: Chris

Chris — Sun, 28 Mar 2010 18:27:08 +0000

Hi, I have a ti Ushba hauler that i could part with if anyone is looking. Just make me an offer

By: ffelix

ffelix — Sat, 16 Jan 2010 06:08:08 +0000

I’ve been using three of these pulley-’biners in my glacier kit since I first spotted them.

Tie the end of the rope to the anchor & use the slack through one more ‘biner at a knot tied at the spot where your little guy is huffing away. This adds a 2:1 pig rig for 6:1 advantage, which is probably all the anchors will hold.

Pretty hard to haul a big partner out with just a 3:1 Z-drag.

By: Andrew

Andrew — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 17:47:33 +0000

Hi Kevin – I’m sure there are better pulleys out there than the Revolver, but then again these pulleys probably don’t work very well as a locking or regular biner.

By: Andrew

Andrew — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 17:45:19 +0000

Hi Lee – I also use to carry the Tiblocs, but ditched them for the same reason – unlike prussick knots, if you fall on them, they are more likely tol rip your sheath. But, this isn’t to say I don’t like the Tiblocs, Mini Tractions, or any of the other cool stuff – I do, but I think the tried, true and simple prussick set-up for glaciers is still the best, especially if you know how to set it up.

By: Lee Lau

Lee Lau — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 16:35:25 +0000

Damn,

That’s really cool. I had used tiblocs (ditched them because they rip the rope & yeah Im sloppy); still use Petzl pulleys (hate the little rattling things) but this looks tits.

hey matt your system sounds nice and simple too – is it basically the same system as the basic Z one in andrew’s scrawl?

By: TE

TE — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 04:53:53 +0000

Thanks, Andrew… just bought 2 DMM revolver lockers… my GF was the excuse for getting 2 :-) have been doing some self rescue/hauling practice waiting for snow. nice timing and good †ip!

By: Matt Schonwald

Matt Schonwald — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 04:44:52 +0000

Another thought to go along with the DMM carabiner is a Wild Country Ropeman for the ratchet at the anchor and a Ti-bloc for the mechanical advantage where I put the DMM Revolver. Total gear needed is 3 lockers and 3 non-lockers, an ice screw, a cordelette, a single sling and double sling(this assumes you already have an ice axe). You could get by with a fewer carabiners which should not mess with its efficiency.

The Ropeman replaces the pulley and prusik at the anchor and the need for a bigger ascender. Not cheap, certainly lighter though.

By: Kevin

Kevin — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 00:31:47 +0000

Sounds good in theory, but… I’ve heard from a reliable source that actual testing shows the efficiency of revolver biners to be somewhere between trivial and equal to a regular biner. Which makes it a heavy and expensive alternative to a regular locker. Also if anything compromises the pulley mechanism (a piece of grit, or ice) it becomes worthless (or equal to a normal biner).

I wish I could cite a paper that outlines the actual friction coefficients of a new and dirty sample under load. Nothing beats field testing to confirm what “sounds like a good idea”. Try it out yourself.

By: Andrew

Andrew — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 01:52:27 +0000

David – pulley’s on each point of the Z would make more sense, especially with the tiny barrel of the Revolver. I guess I have to test drive my single Revolver and then look for a good excuse to get another in the future. :)

By: David

David — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 23:31:05 +0000

Any reason for not using the “pulley” on the anchor? Isn’t the friction more or less equal at all the carabiner/pulley points? Just asking cuz, when I’ve had just one pulley that’s where I’ve used it, not sure why, just seemed like a logical place for it.

I agree that these are cool biners and they make sense for this application, but the thought of one racked next to some Oz’s is a little funny, since those both occupy different ends of the biner world. Now if they would just make the Revolver with that winch built in that would be the ticket…