Comments on: Ouray Ice Park http://straightchuter.com/2009/02/ouray-ice-park/ Backcountry Skiing & Beyond by Andrew McLean Wed, 10 Mar 2010 03:08:01 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=abc hourly 1 By: Jared http://straightchuter.com/2009/02/ouray-ice-park/comment-page-1/#comment-2258 Jared Tue, 24 Feb 2009 05:10:04 +0000 http://straightchuter.com/?p=2364#comment-2258 Well, I have everything I need except for crampons and axes. Now I really have no excuse. . . Thanks for almost pushing me over the edge. Maybe if I'm a good boy this year I can use my Christmas money and get on some ice next year Well, I have everything I need except for crampons and axes. Now I really have no excuse. . . Thanks for almost pushing me over the edge. Maybe if I’m a good boy this year I can use my Christmas money and get on some ice next year

]]> By: Rob http://straightchuter.com/2009/02/ouray-ice-park/comment-page-1/#comment-2257 Rob Tue, 24 Feb 2009 03:00:11 +0000 http://straightchuter.com/?p=2364#comment-2257 Actually, I was reading The White Spider and Harrer did what seems to be a 6-rope long W3/3+ without crampons, one ice piton, and only a single moutainteering axe! Redonk! - R Actually, I was reading The White Spider and Harrer did what seems to be a 6-rope long W3/3+ without crampons, one ice piton, and only a single moutainteering axe! Redonk!
- R

]]> By: Andrew http://straightchuter.com/2009/02/ouray-ice-park/comment-page-1/#comment-2256 Andrew Mon, 23 Feb 2009 23:50:04 +0000 http://straightchuter.com/?p=2364#comment-2256 Hi Rob - I'd fully agree with all of that and more than anything like to make fun of ice climbing as that's what avid ice climbers do themselves. As you mentioned, about the only thing you really need is a set of technical tools. For ski mountaineering, I like the BD Venom with a technical pick as it can get you up just about anything. It may not be as efficient as a leashless tool, but they are much more versatile and lightweight. Between a pair of those and some Sabertooth Crampons, you can climb stuff way harder and steeper than you could ever ski. Expanding on that idea, the Venom ice tool is pretty much the only one I use for ski mountaineering as I think that Whippets cover the piolet spectrum and anything more than a Venom is overkill. I usually carry one Adz Venom, but if I think there may be some extended ice climbing, I'd carry a hammer version as well. If you don't expect a lot of vertical water-ice, I only carry one tool with the idea being that if you need to, you can borrow a partners ice tool, climb a pitch, set an anchor, then lower the tool set back down. Hi Rob – I’d fully agree with all of that and more than anything like to make fun of ice climbing as that’s what avid ice climbers do themselves.

As you mentioned, about the only thing you really need is a set of technical tools. For ski mountaineering, I like the BD Venom with a technical pick as it can get you up just about anything. It may not be as efficient as a leashless tool, but they are much more versatile and lightweight. Between a pair of those and some Sabertooth Crampons, you can climb stuff way harder and steeper than you could ever ski.

Expanding on that idea, the Venom ice tool is pretty much the only one I use for ski mountaineering as I think that Whippets cover the piolet spectrum and anything more than a Venom is overkill. I usually carry one Adz Venom, but if I think there may be some extended ice climbing, I’d carry a hammer version as well. If you don’t expect a lot of vertical water-ice, I only carry one tool with the idea being that if you need to, you can borrow a partners ice tool, climb a pitch, set an anchor, then lower the tool set back down.

]]> By: Rob http://straightchuter.com/2009/02/ouray-ice-park/comment-page-1/#comment-2255 Rob Mon, 23 Feb 2009 22:39:00 +0000 http://straightchuter.com/?p=2364#comment-2255 Actually, the biggest cost in ice climbing (well, assuming you don't get super fancy ice tools) are the boots. Lucky us, we already have pretty fancy boots that work perfectly on vertical ice, as long as you use step-in crampons. I can easily climb W3+ over at Frankenstein (Trestles, Walk in the Woods, Standard) with my Megarides and though I had trouble on some W4 this past weekend (The Flume), that had more to do with killing my arms in the rock gym than anything else. To be honest, you should have a pair of crampons, a harness, and a rope anyway if you are doing serious winter mountaineering of any sort. That leaves ice tools and ice pro. A pair of leashed/leashless "pseudo alpine" ice tools (BD Venom, CAMP Alpax, Petzl Aztarex, Grivel AirTech, etc.) will set you back around $200, which really isn't that bad, especially since you should carry at least one traditional mountaineering axe with you in the winter anyway. As long as you can find an easy way up (YDS1-4, or even up to W3- once you are confident on ice), you can go a pretty long time without getting ice pro, especially if the friends you climb with have a good rack. Besides, there is nothing more badass than setting out on a hike with ice axes AND skis strapped to your back. - R Actually, the biggest cost in ice climbing (well, assuming you don’t get super fancy ice tools) are the boots. Lucky us, we already have pretty fancy boots that work perfectly on vertical ice, as long as you use step-in crampons. I can easily climb W3+ over at Frankenstein (Trestles, Walk in the Woods, Standard) with my Megarides and though I had trouble on some W4 this past weekend (The Flume), that had more to do with killing my arms in the rock gym than anything else. To be honest, you should have a pair of crampons, a harness, and a rope anyway if you are doing serious winter mountaineering of any sort. That leaves ice tools and ice pro. A pair of leashed/leashless “pseudo alpine” ice tools (BD Venom, CAMP Alpax, Petzl Aztarex, Grivel AirTech, etc.) will set you back around $200, which really isn’t that bad, especially since you should carry at least one traditional mountaineering axe with you in the winter anyway. As long as you can find an easy way up (YDS1-4, or even up to W3- once you are confident on ice), you can go a pretty long time without getting ice pro, especially if the friends you climb with have a good rack.

Besides, there is nothing more badass than setting out on a hike with ice axes AND skis strapped to your back.
- R

]]> By: Jared http://straightchuter.com/2009/02/ouray-ice-park/comment-page-1/#comment-2254 Jared Mon, 23 Feb 2009 22:07:25 +0000 http://straightchuter.com/?p=2364#comment-2254 Gah! My friends keep trying to convince me to go ice climbing, but I keep resisting. Why? Because I'm afraid that I'll fall in love with it and have to shell out even more money for gear that costs hundreds of dollars. I know one day I'll relent . . . it's only a matter of time. And unceasing peer pressure from my ice climbing friends doesn't help. Gah! My friends keep trying to convince me to go ice climbing, but I keep resisting. Why? Because I’m afraid that I’ll fall in love with it and have to shell out even more money for gear that costs hundreds of dollars. I know one day I’ll relent . . . it’s only a matter of time. And unceasing peer pressure from my ice climbing friends doesn’t help.

]]> By: Rob http://straightchuter.com/2009/02/ouray-ice-park/comment-page-1/#comment-2253 Rob Mon, 23 Feb 2009 17:44:53 +0000 http://straightchuter.com/?p=2364#comment-2253 In New England we have it easy. From my place in North Woodstock, it's twenty minutes to the Flume and Black Dyke, and a bit longer will put you at Frankenstein and North Conway, premier climbing spots all. - R In New England we have it easy. From my place in North Woodstock, it’s twenty minutes to the Flume and Black Dyke, and a bit longer will put you at Frankenstein and North Conway, premier climbing spots all.
- R

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