<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Skin Set Up &#8211; Part Two</title>
	<atom:link href="http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/</link>
	<description>Backcountry Skiing &#38; Beyond by Andrew McLean</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 18 May 2012 01:16:51 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: Justin</title>
		<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/comment-page-1/#comment-1417</link>
		<dc:creator>Justin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Jan 2009 23:17:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://straightchuter.com/?p=1786#comment-1417</guid>
		<description>Sewing the tips closed is easy with a speedy stitcher (which is very helpful for all sorts of gear related repairs or modifications.)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sewing the tips closed is easy with a speedy stitcher (which is very helpful for all sorts of gear related repairs or modifications.)</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Andrew</title>
		<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/comment-page-1/#comment-1407</link>
		<dc:creator>Andrew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Jan 2009 16:58:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://straightchuter.com/?p=1786#comment-1407</guid>
		<description>Oooh rivets - that&#039;s an excellent idea!  Those two part mushroom style rivets from the old tip &amp; tail kits would be prefect.  Less mess, clean &amp; strong.  Sewing them works alright, but getting the needle through the sticky skins is a hassle.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Oooh rivets &#8211; that&#8217;s an excellent idea!  Those two part mushroom style rivets from the old tip &#038; tail kits would be prefect.  Less mess, clean &#038; strong.  Sewing them works alright, but getting the needle through the sticky skins is a hassle.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Seth</title>
		<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/comment-page-1/#comment-1402</link>
		<dc:creator>Seth</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Jan 2009 00:56:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://straightchuter.com/?p=1786#comment-1402</guid>
		<description>For some customers (and for my own skis) I have installed a few low-profile rivets to keep the tip loop stationary.  

Pretty easy if you have access to a riveter...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For some customers (and for my own skis) I have installed a few low-profile rivets to keep the tip loop stationary.  </p>
<p>Pretty easy if you have access to a riveter&#8230;</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Andrew</title>
		<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/comment-page-1/#comment-1401</link>
		<dc:creator>Andrew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 2008 20:10:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://straightchuter.com/?p=1786#comment-1401</guid>
		<description>Hi Patricio - Cutting off your tip fold-over flap and stitching it on (as shown in the previous posting) will help with that.  With just the fold over method, you need enough glue-to-glue to make the skins stick together, but at the same time, it creates a glueless &quot;pocket&quot; right at the front of the ski, which inevitably gets a little snow, then a little more... then they fail.

The G3 clips look like they would serve the same purpose, but then again, you&#039;ve got four parts (two clips &amp; two rivets) which are fixed vs. a single sewn on steel loop, which can be moved if you really need to.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Patricio &#8211; Cutting off your tip fold-over flap and stitching it on (as shown in the previous posting) will help with that.  With just the fold over method, you need enough glue-to-glue to make the skins stick together, but at the same time, it creates a glueless &#8220;pocket&#8221; right at the front of the ski, which inevitably gets a little snow, then a little more&#8230; then they fail.</p>
<p>The G3 clips look like they would serve the same purpose, but then again, you&#8217;ve got four parts (two clips &#038; two rivets) which are fixed vs. a single sewn on steel loop, which can be moved if you really need to.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Patricio</title>
		<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/comment-page-1/#comment-1399</link>
		<dc:creator>Patricio</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 2008 18:56:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://straightchuter.com/?p=1786#comment-1399</guid>
		<description>Sometimes (especially in deep pow) I&#039;ll get snow/ice building up under the tip. It progresses further down the ski with each lap until the skins are held on by the tip/tail attachments. Do you know if the G3 alpinist tips help avoid that? I was thinking of sewing a tip pocket onto mine so that no snow could get under it. Any thoughts?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sometimes (especially in deep pow) I&#8217;ll get snow/ice building up under the tip. It progresses further down the ski with each lap until the skins are held on by the tip/tail attachments. Do you know if the G3 alpinist tips help avoid that? I was thinking of sewing a tip pocket onto mine so that no snow could get under it. Any thoughts?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Andrew</title>
		<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/comment-page-1/#comment-1395</link>
		<dc:creator>Andrew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 2008 05:15:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://straightchuter.com/?p=1786#comment-1395</guid>
		<description>I&#039;ve had pretty good luck getting rid of goop and grease just by using them a lot and it eventually goes away.  The base cleaner sounds like a good idea, especially the citric version.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve had pretty good luck getting rid of goop and grease just by using them a lot and it eventually goes away.  The base cleaner sounds like a good idea, especially the citric version.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: CesarO</title>
		<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/comment-page-1/#comment-1394</link>
		<dc:creator>CesarO</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 Dec 2008 05:02:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://straightchuter.com/?p=1786#comment-1394</guid>
		<description>Any special tricks for removing sap and other (say on-water soluable) goop from skins that will often collect in the plush when touring in &quot;dirty&quot; spring (and sometimes early summer) snow.  I&#039;ve sparingly used ski base cleaner to successfully dissolve the goop from the skin hairs, but I&#039;m always worrying that this will ultimately degrade my skins sooner than normal.  Is there a better and safer cleaner to use?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Any special tricks for removing sap and other (say on-water soluable) goop from skins that will often collect in the plush when touring in &#8220;dirty&#8221; spring (and sometimes early summer) snow.  I&#8217;ve sparingly used ski base cleaner to successfully dissolve the goop from the skin hairs, but I&#8217;m always worrying that this will ultimately degrade my skins sooner than normal.  Is there a better and safer cleaner to use?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Andrew</title>
		<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/comment-page-1/#comment-1391</link>
		<dc:creator>Andrew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Dec 2008 23:53:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://straightchuter.com/?p=1786#comment-1391</guid>
		<description>Although I&#039;ve never used the BCA skins, I feel your pain.  There are a lot of little details that go into making a good skin, including how many plies it has, what kind of plush is used, how the plush is formed, glue quality &amp; durability, how much water they absorb, etc..  I wouldn&#039;t say they are complex, but definitely fickle, especially considering the temperatures and environments they operate in.  My skins of choice are the BD (pretty much any of them) with the G3&#039;s being a close second, although I don&#039;t like their attachment systems.  I&#039;ve also heard good things about https://www.climbingskinsdirect.com/ although I&#039;ve never used those either (hmmmm, maybe I should hit them up for a product review sample...).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Although I&#8217;ve never used the BCA skins, I feel your pain.  There are a lot of little details that go into making a good skin, including how many plies it has, what kind of plush is used, how the plush is formed, glue quality &#038; durability, how much water they absorb, etc..  I wouldn&#8217;t say they are complex, but definitely fickle, especially considering the temperatures and environments they operate in.  My skins of choice are the BD (pretty much any of them) with the G3&#8242;s being a close second, although I don&#8217;t like their attachment systems.  I&#8217;ve also heard good things about <a href="https://www.climbingskinsdirect.com/" rel="nofollow">https://www.climbingskinsdirect.com/</a> although I&#8217;ve never used those either (hmmmm, maybe I should hit them up for a product review sample&#8230;).</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Ralph S.</title>
		<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/comment-page-1/#comment-1390</link>
		<dc:creator>Ralph S.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Dec 2008 23:43:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://straightchuter.com/?p=1786#comment-1390</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the insights.  Part of the reason I ask is that I have BCA &quot;Low-Fat&quot; skins and they don&#039;t perform up to my standards (and my standards are pretty low).  This is their second season and I am wanting to upgrade to BD Ascensions or Glidelites.  But before I do I want to make sure that I am not prematurely ditching the BCAs.  The main problem is that on the second (and subsequent) lap the skins allow quite a bit of snow along upper edges.  I figured that the moisture and temps were the problem, so I stash them in my jacket and use my fleece glove liner to dry and give the skis a friction rub to help.  But it&#039;s marginal.  I store them with skin savers at home.  Could it be shitty glue?  I&#039;ve heard mixed reviews of the BCAs. 

The second issue is they have zero glide.  I mean zero.  I could probably walk down a 30 degree slope!  That&#039;s why I enquired about randosteve&#039;s hot wax job.  I&#039;m desperate, man!  Sorry for the diatribe...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the insights.  Part of the reason I ask is that I have BCA &#8220;Low-Fat&#8221; skins and they don&#8217;t perform up to my standards (and my standards are pretty low).  This is their second season and I am wanting to upgrade to BD Ascensions or Glidelites.  But before I do I want to make sure that I am not prematurely ditching the BCAs.  The main problem is that on the second (and subsequent) lap the skins allow quite a bit of snow along upper edges.  I figured that the moisture and temps were the problem, so I stash them in my jacket and use my fleece glove liner to dry and give the skis a friction rub to help.  But it&#8217;s marginal.  I store them with skin savers at home.  Could it be shitty glue?  I&#8217;ve heard mixed reviews of the BCAs. </p>
<p>The second issue is they have zero glide.  I mean zero.  I could probably walk down a 30 degree slope!  That&#8217;s why I enquired about randosteve&#8217;s hot wax job.  I&#8217;m desperate, man!  Sorry for the diatribe&#8230;</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Andrew</title>
		<link>http://straightchuter.com/2008/12/skin-set-up-part-two/comment-page-1/#comment-1385</link>
		<dc:creator>Andrew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Dec 2008 17:29:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://straightchuter.com/?p=1786#comment-1385</guid>
		<description>Hi Ralph - I just slap them together and don&#039;t use any sort of skin saver.  Part of the reason for this is that I use a tip &amp; tail kit, so the adhesive doesn&#039;t have to be overly tacky or clean.  I also stuff my skins inside my jacket when skiing, which helps melt off any frost crystals and keep them a bit warmer, which makes them stick a bit better.

I&#039;ve experimented with hot waxing skins and thought that it worked better on Mohair than synthetic.  For me, unless I&#039;m racing, the potential damage that can be caused to your skins by repeatedly hot waxing them doesn&#039;t seem worth the little bit of extended glide you get out of them, so I prefer just rub-on wax.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Ralph &#8211; I just slap them together and don&#8217;t use any sort of skin saver.  Part of the reason for this is that I use a tip &#038; tail kit, so the adhesive doesn&#8217;t have to be overly tacky or clean.  I also stuff my skins inside my jacket when skiing, which helps melt off any frost crystals and keep them a bit warmer, which makes them stick a bit better.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve experimented with hot waxing skins and thought that it worked better on Mohair than synthetic.  For me, unless I&#8217;m racing, the potential damage that can be caused to your skins by repeatedly hot waxing them doesn&#8217;t seem worth the little bit of extended glide you get out of them, so I prefer just rub-on wax.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

